Motivation is never really an issue for me; not because I never get in a rut, but because I kickstart it when I need to. How do I do it? Top Gun’s theme song and a 6 pack of red bull. Or any of the three much better tricks below!
Here’s the review of the best airbrush kit in the market to get you airbrushing in no time.
Or get the 3 in one kit here:
Can a 10$ fancy-pantsy bar of specialized soap make your brush live near forever? Yes it can.
YES. IT. CAN.
As with most things I know about miniature painting, I found out and tried this thing by accident. One use and I was hooked. This was about 6 years ago, and I’m still quite fond of the stuff.
In last week’s Toolsday post, we covered the importance of getting decent quality brushes. Now spending a small fortune on brushes is only worth it if you can make these last.
I’ve found that my Raphael’s were lasting me 2 to 3 times longer when I used the soap. Mind you, this is over the course of 6 months to a year of me painting like a raving maniac, so above and beyond normal wear and tear.
Master’s Brush Cleaner: How to Use
Seems pretty straightforward, but might as well get into it, as I don’t feel like getting PM’ed at 4 in the morning with complaints on how I destroyed brushes and ruined lives because the soap literraly exploded your brush (It won’t.)
Step 1: Clean your brush in water like you usually do.
Step 2: Before wiping it on a paper towel, roll it around the bar of soap like you would on a miniature you were painting. Unlike paint, don’t be afraid to get soap everywhere on the bristles of the brush, not just the tip.
Step 3: Give it a good whirl in water and dry it on a paper towel.
I do these 3 steps when I’m done painting for the day, not between every color, that is unnecessary.
There is also an optional 4th step, which I’ve never done but was recommended by great painters: add a little bit of soap to the tip of your brush at the very end and make it into a fine point. Without cleaning it, this extra bit of soap helps your brush keep it’s tip longer. Once again, so I’ve heard, I never did, I’ve been pretty happy using only steps one to three.
And there you have it, quality brushes deserve extra love.
No excuses, hobby like a champion!
One kit gets you all the cool toys in a box, hit the jump for more specs and review.
If you’ve looked at the Tools and Gear section previously, I’ve recommended getting a similar compressor and a Patriot 105. This set comes to around the price point, but with 3 airbrushes instead of one and a lot of accessories.
In term of price, you pay for the Compressor and all the cool accessories and they give you 3 lower-tier airbrushes. Which is great, because the airbrush is usually the 1st thing you will change or upgrade from your starting setup.
I’m only now linking this because I wasn’t able to test the set, and I don’t recommend stuff I can’t try or don’t know enough about. But now I do, there’s one sitting at my desk right now, which I plan to break open and review after Adepticon.
Unto the specs and why they’re awesome-sauce.
What the set gives you:
This is your standard compressor, it’s high performance, resilient and it’s the same or similar to the recommended starting compressor everywhere.
Moisture Trap & Pressure Regulator
This is the glass cup-shaped item on the right of the compressor. It’s nice to get, as you can make the most out of your compressor by controlling the pressure, and use it longer because of the moisture trap.
Another cool feature is the quality hose. Most cheap or intro setup come with a cheap plastic-like hose, and I am here to tell you that they are the devil. Regardless of your initial setup, you want a quality hose, because stuff exploding when you use it is a no-no.
2 Gravity Feed, Dual Action Airbrush
Why do I need 3 airbrushes? Different airbrushes get different results mah ninja! Contrary to brush painting, your airbrush skills will be capped by your material, i.e. your airbrushes, not by your actual skills. For example, no matter how Next Level boss you are at an airbrush, there’s only so much you can do with only a spray gun. So different things for you to try before you drop another 150.00 for a real high quality airbrush when you chose to step your game up.
1 Suction Feed Airbrush
Much like the Badger Spray Gun at first glance, this badboy takes care of your base coats and primer needs. It’s also the easiest of the 3 to learn with if you’ve never touched an airbrush before.
Most of the top tier artist recommend NOT using these, including the maker of Badger Airbrushes, so I tend to believe them. However, if you really want to use them, the general guideline is: if you have to use force, you’re doing it wrong and you will most likely break something. This is the only time ever I will advise against “Might makes Right, and if it’s not working, you’re not using enough”
This is more in the range of: Oh cool there’s this thing in! You need somewhere to put your airbrushes without stepping on them or taking out of the box everytime, you get this in the box. I wouldn’t pay for it, but it’s free!
A couple weeks back we featured an article on the Badger Spray Gun listing all its pros and cons. One of the things left unchecked was the primer capabilities of the spray gun.
In the words of meme-ific barbers: Say no more fam.
Hit the jump for the links to the products and the stills from the video with primed awesomeness
And in the Darkness bind them. Or something like it.
High end brushes are another thing that you should probably invest in.
You can save a lot of money in the long run by buying high quality because the price/duration ratio is much better. You pay 15 dollars instead of 6, for a brush that will last more than a year instead of 3 months. KA-CHING!
Sadly, it’s another type of item that is always incredibly too expensive in store rather than online.
You can get more infos after the jump.
I never really bought in on the high end brush before having one myself. I won a Winsor and Newton in a painting competition, and was instantly sold. This was when I painted 40 hours a week, the Winsor and Newton lasted close to a year.
A size 1 brush will do basecoats and the dot the eyes of the same miniature.
After the WN was beat up, I could only find Raphael’s, and lo and behold, they were the same high quality for cheaper. I have never looked back.
The GMM Masterplan.
This trick I stole from GMM’s studio, who has a very specific and quite brilliant way to work with these brushes.
I always own 3-4 of this brush, in various condition. The relatively new one, which is your go-to brush, the old one, really only good for drybrushing or very large basecoats, and the nearly destroyed one, for glue and other cringe-worthy materials. The 4th one is a brand new one, ready to join in the rotation when one becomes too beatdown.
Raphael vs Winsor Newton in the endless battle of the exact same thing.
Most reviews and brush-talk on the net, you’ll hear: Get the Winsor& Newton, Rapahel’s is garbage. Or Winsor & Newton changed their brush, they’re not as good now, and all other sort of get one avoid the other type of advice.
Truth of the matter is, it’s pretty much the same thing. I’ve owned from both brands and besides the orange end on Raphael’s I can’t tell which is which or if one lasted longer. If you want to try for yourself, the equivalent is called Winsor & Newton Serie 7, and it’s not listed here because it is 30$ and more per brush and it contradicts my philosophy on shopping smart: always bought whichever was available and less expensive if it’s the same thing.
Until next time,
No excuses, hobby like a champion!
Welcome to this 1st installment of the Tuesday Toolsday!
This week, we are going over the Badger Basic Spray Gun Set, a straightforward, easy to use and cheap alternative to the standard airbrush.
Hit the jump for the specs and review.
I bought this little guy last year 3 days before a tournament when I still had a lot of stuff to paint. The Patriot Xtreme I currently use was in the mail, and I didn’t feel like paying 100$ or more on another one.
So I bought this from a hobby shop for 39$, expecting the worse, but figuring I could throw it out the window when my airbrush would arrive. Boy was I wrong.
The Spray gun is by no means an airbrush equivalent, but what it does, it does extremely well.
Basecoats and primer are a joke with this, it’s as good as an Army Painter color primer for bulk jobs. I can see this tool doing terrain pieces and entire boards easily.
– Easy to use:This won’t clog, it’s near unbreakable, there’s no fine needle to bend and curve, once you figure out the mix, spray away.
– SPRAY and pray: How large? Dun’ matter to this airbrush! You can lay 4-5 infantry on a stick or a board and speed up your basecoating or priming with an airbrush primer.
– Easy to clean: Bring it to the kitchen sink, run hot water in the cup and on the airbrush, you are done. Took 15 seconds.
– All in one: This part is quite nice, as airbrush material tend to be a lot of trying and fitting, from the compressor to the hose, the hose to the airbrush, this set includes it’s own hose with the most standard size. This is not really something to look for or pay extra to get, but it’s just a nice feature.
– Limited: Like that weird kid Kevin that was eating crayons in 3rd Grade, the Spray Gun is somewhat limited in what you can ask of it. Basecoats and terrain are fine, but getting into even the most basic highlights is pushing it.
– Spray and PRAY: The large area you can cover do take up a lot of paint. It’s classic with succion feed airbrushes to need more paint, but this one take it to another level.
Here are a couple of things I want to test with it, and hopefully I’ll have those links up here once they are done:
Dollar Store Acrylics – Cheap Acrylics can ruin an airbrush in the blink of an eye, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the Badger Spray Gun can deliver. It would be a dope feature, because it mitigates the fact that you use a lot of paint with it.
Full Table – Board and all terrain piece. No brush, all Spray Gun. This is a somewhat ambitious project, as unless someone hooks me up with the supplies, I’ll probably never do it. * WINK WINK NUDGE NUDGE *
AS you may know from my incessant Facebook updates about it or my previous blog post, I attended ATC for the first time earlier this month. I really enjoyed my experience, and was fascinated with the matchmaking system and the army building that goes around. The other part that fascinated me was the outcome for teams that did not pay much attention to said format.
So I’ve compiled some tactics and infosfrom a bunch of players much more skilled at the warhammer than myself to give their thoughts as well.
The matchmaking system is quite simple : You pick a list, the other team assigns you 2 of theirs and you choose an opponent from it. Repeat the process with the 4 remaining lists alternating who picks one.
Quite simple, yet it allows for much strategy, specially in list building.
It is not always the case, however, as teams and players have to make compromises to their lists in order to « save » a codex for another list. This is problematic with 8 players per team and 20 or so books only. A good example of this is the Librarius Conclave, which is almost every country’s Space Marine part. This also means that a lot of lists run the Dark Angel Equivalent, or the Psykana Division from the Astra Militarum, because either they’re already running the Dark Angels Codex, or there simply was no other way left to get a lot of warp charges.
The ATC is a better judge in army building as teams are 5 players instead of 8, meaning that you are able to fit more into a single list because it will not handicap another player later on.
Then again, the format doesn’t favor take-all-comers list. Or at least, not 5 of them.
In the general sense of ATC ( I’ll use ATC as an example, as I have yet to go to ETC; and on a totally unrelated matter, CA-NA-DA! CA-NA-DA! This weekend! ) lists come in 3 categories : Attackers, Defenders and Balanced. There are many names for them but essentially : Attackers are list you want to attack people and score big wins with. Defenders are lists that can take a beating and still salvage some points. Balanced lists should be able to do both depending on the opposing team.
Every team should have at least one defender. The go-to defender lists are Daemons, Battle Company and the Bark-Star list ( 55 Fenrisian wolves in a single unit and all the characters and psykers you can find ) The defender’s job is to either take on a matchup that no-one on your team wants or can deal with, or take on one of the attacker’s list and prevent it from getting 20-0. This is not for everybody, as you end up getting dumped on all weekend for the greater good of your team.
And because I’m not a negative person in life, here are tricks from the pros your can use, should you venture in ATC 2017.
Tom Ogden :
My strategy the last couple years is to put a list out at random. Keeps everyone on their toes